Thanks to international retail being so easy via the internet, recycled kimono fabrics exported directly from Japan have become readily available to sewers abroad. These incredibly beautiful fabrics present tons of opportunities and challenges to the sewist and fashion designer willing to rescue them. They're worth the effort; the exquisite embroideries and printed motifs are so unlike what may be found at your average fabric shop, and honestly, they're so beautiful I'm glad they're being given another go at life.
Needlework, Kitagawa Utamaro, c. 1797
Kimono fabrics are pretty narrow; they're only about 14 inches wide (~35.5cm). A single bolt, usually 12.5 yards long (~11.4m), is designed to create a single kimono. The motif on the kimono bolt is arranged to accommodate the piecing of the strips of fabric and create a complete image once the kimono is built. While quilters have been taking advantage of vintage kimono 'bundles' (lots of either pieces or whole kimono) for some time, the fashion designer is put to the test by the narrowness of the kimono bolt. But there are many interesting ways turn their narrow shape into a design advantage.
Note: My obligatory FYI! I'm no expert and my Japanese is extremely limited. This is mostly stuff I've absorbed over the years through hunting for kimono fabrics online. I try to very hard to be accurate, but at the end of the day I'm just a gal who likes kimono fabric a lot.
Types of Kimono:
When searching for kimonos, it's helpful to familiarize yourself with the different types of kimono available; different kinds had different intended uses and that can help you find specific kinds of design, color, or fabric content you're interested in. 'Kimono' is just a general term meaning 'thing to wear', what follows are the major types you'll see when shopping online. I fully support learning about the culture that has made these available to us (granted I'm a biased evangelical Japanese art enthusiast), so go wild and dig beyond the basics if it moves you!
Furisode: Means 'swinging sleeves'. These were worn by unmarried women, wedding kimonos are of this type as well. Due to the elaborate designs spilling out onto their long sleeves, these are the most coveted and most expensive type of vintage kimono in my experience.
Tomosode: These are found in black or a single color with designs limited to the hemline up to the waist area. They seem fairly common on vintage kimono shops online.
Iromuji: A simple single color type of kimono. They seem to mostly have a design woven into the fabric rather than a print, they are favored for tea ceremonies.
HÅmongi: As I understand it, these pretty kimono were intended for social functions. They are distinct in having a design that flows over the shoulder of the wearer.
Haori: They're a kind of short jacket, for men or women. They always seem to be the least expensive online! They're often a good deal plainer than many of the printed kimono you'll see, but they can still have beautiful patterns.
Yukata: a kind of cotton or linen kimono used for summer. You may have seen their beautiful indigo prints! The fabric content means they're often more affordable.
Obi- Then of course there are the Obi. They are, by far, my favorite! Their designs are not truncated like in kimono fabric bolts as they are worn sash-like about the waist. There are many different kinds, but here are the varieties the sewer may run into online:
Nagoya obi: Uber common obi type. They have a wide variety of pattern and color types and are mostly used for every day wear, though they do come in fancy varieties.
Fukuro obi: These are fairly fancy obi. I love the golden brocade varieties of this obi. They are also pretty common, and have a wide variety of designs.
Maru obi: A very formal obi style. These can have incredible woven designs and I understand they are sometimes used as a bridal obi. They can get pretty pricey.
'Needlework' Triptych, Kitagawa Utamaro c.1794-5
Sources for Kimono and Obi
There are several different forms kimono fabric can be purchased in. They can be bought in bulk as bundles or bales, as a complete used kimono, as unused fabric bolts, or as reclaimed fabric or remnants from disassembled kimono. Of course, you'll find varying levels of quality and price can be extremely varied, too. Some shops sell kimono cheap with a high shipping price attached, in others the kimono will be very expensive but with low shipping. Really, it's all over the map. I haven't a chance to try all of these shops personally. They may serve as a starting point for you, though, and give you a feel for what's out there.
Ichiroya Kimono Flea Market: They have it all!
Kyoto Kimono: Bolts, bundles, and bales, as well as complete vintage kimono.
Kimoyes: Great variety and prices on vintage kimonos and fabric scraps and bolts.
Yokodana Kimono: Tricky to navigate but lots of stuff.
Clothaholics: Beautiful cotton indigo.
Shinei Antique Kimono Store: A huge variety!
Etsy: Check here often.
Ebay: A lot here as well.
Wafu Works: Scraps and bundles
You may also want to check your city. Some cities are lucky enough to have an Asian antiques shop that may carry vintage kimonos. Whether the price is reasonable or not is another matter!
Using Kimono Fabrics:
There are a lot of ways to use uncycled kimono fabric. They make for beautiful ties and pieced vintage style blouses. They can be used as contrast panels in skirts, dresses, blouses, pillows, etc. The beautiful obi brocades make great contrast collars and panels in coats and jackets. Purses seem natural considering the width of obi fabrics, and the interior decorating possibilities are many. Fabric damage is often minimal and easily worked around.Using Kimono Fabrics:
Interestingly, I've found I'm unable to bring myself to pick apart an otherwise fine kimono. They're so beautiful. To make it easier on myself I look for bolts or remnants. But if you find an old kimono you want to recycle, they are fairly easy to pick apart; though admittedly it is a pretty dull task. If you feel it needs laundering, the fabric can be washed by hand in cold or cool water. I used woolite or baby shampoo. Then, the excess water can be pressed out of the fabric with a towel (to prevent dripping and stretching), and hang dried. You may choose dry cleaning, though I never have done it personally so I can't say much else about it.
I hope you find some inspiration here. Besides the obvious beauty you'll be lending your next project using reclaimed kimono fabric, you get to feel pretty alright about recycling too. So have fun!
