Sewing with these patterns can be a challenge, though, as they use different markings and the fit usually needs some adaptation. Here I've outlined a few tips: storage, use, and some vintage pattern resources that will hopefully help you on your own vintage pattern adventure.
Pattern from my stash: 1930s McCall 9157
(Note: I am not a professional archivist or anything fancy. The methods outlined here are not rules and I'm no authority. What follows is merely my own method of dealing with vintage patterns.)
Preservation and Storage
Whenever I acquire a vintage pattern, my first step is usually to dust off any debris and remove the crisp factory folds, if present. As the paper ages, it can get brittle and may crack along those crisp fold lines. If you're careful you can use a warm iron to remove the creases: place it on the absolute lowest setting on 'no steam'. I place a sheet of tissue paper between the pattern and the iron's surface as an added precaution. Antique patterns are a finite resource, so I like to play it safe.
After I iron my pattern, I usually trace it off onto large sheets of tissue paper. I like to pin my work onto a large sheet of foam core board to keep the pattern and tissue paper from shifting, insuring an accurate result. Some older patterns were stamp or die cut or something similar... I find I often have to smooth out cutting lines here or there, even out the curves. You can use your judgement to decide if its necessary. It's just a tracing, so if you change your mind later, it's no problem! I do all my alterations on these tracings. No pressure at all that way, though tracing can be tedious. Maybe put on some of your favorite music and make the best of it :)
Once my pattern is traced, I like to store my patterns in a way that minimizes wear and tear, is nice and pretty, and easy to store. I personally swear by polypropylene or mylar comic book sleeves, along with their corresponding cardboard backings. You can get them at a comic book shop, and they thankfully aren't too expensive. I don't even attempt to shove my patterns back into their original envelopes- I place the envelope and instruction sheet in the bag on one side of the cardboard insert, and softly fold the pattern pieces and place them on the other side of the insert in the bag (I usually let the shiny side of the cardboard face the pattern pieces). The comic sleeve can be closed with a sticker dot or scotch tape or whatever works best for your plastic. It looks very nice too! Below is an example. I then store these in a filing cabinet, fittingly, near my prized comics.
A pattern separated and stored in a single comic sleeve, front and back view.
Altering Vintage Patterns for Contemporary Wear
Vintage patterns were typically designed with the support garments of their day in mind, which can make fitting them for casual modern wear challenging. Girdles, corsets, waists, minimizers, etc alter the shape of the body in unique ways: you may recall the wasp-waist and pigeon chest of the 1910s, the flatter bosom of the 1920s, the narrow, flattened hip in the 1930s, and the hourglass of the 1940s and 1950s. Generalizations, but you get the idea! Unfortunately for us modern undergarment wearers, that means more work. Some styles may require a structural overhaul if you want to wear them without special shapewear, due to your own individual figure requirements. It frustrates me that I can't wear those straight flapper gowns or slinky 1930s gowns without adding darts and seams and who knows what else. For the sake of practicality, I tend to go for 1940s or 1950s styles, simply because they are more flattering to my particular figure as is. But do whatever makes you feel good! It may just mean a couple extra muslins and fittings, but I have faith in you creative folks. The sewist community blows me away with their ability to make it work.
Understanding Older Patterns
Many of the older patterns were perforated and pre-cut rather than printed. They could be a little inaccurate, and markings on the cut kind are denoted by a terrifying scatter-shot of punched holes. I should also mention their extremely rudimentary instructions: these unprinted babies are probably best for confident sewers. But, with some sewing experience under your belt you can soldier through. Darts are usually indicated by a sparse triangle of punched holes. Not to be confused with grain lines, which are a line of punched holes. And button placement, which are marked by... punched holes. If I say that the punched holes are sometimes different sizes, does it help? Well, you can decipher them, with patience. Just keep the illustration of the pattern pieces and the pattern envelope at the ready, and refer to that to see which holes are darts, which holes are grain line, and connect the appropriate dots You may find they need some polishing, too.
However, printed patterns, even the earliest ones, will look more familiar to the modern sewer and you should have few problems understanding them. They are usually marked as printed on the envelope somewhere.
The seam finishes suggested in these older patterns- sometimes the entire approach to garment construction- can be quite different. Don't be afraid to give them a shot! I learned a lot of great techniques from these that you just don't see it today's "fast and easy" school of sewing, and I use them often in place of more contemporary methods.
Pattern Resources
Here's the fun bit we waded through all that boring technical stuff to get to. There are a lot of pattern resources these days, and also more competition for patterns. I'm listing ones I have personally used, which means the ones with more reasonable prices. Good hunting! Original Patterns: antiques and vintage
Etsy: This is my foremost source for vintage patterns. Great variety, as well as a variety of prices. Many decades represented.
Ebay: Still plenty of patterns to be found, though the prices can get high. I slowly have become priced out of 1930's evening gown patterns, for example. Maybe you'll have more luck!
Woodland Farms Vintage: I like them very much! Good prices too.
Best Vintage Patterns: Great selection, quick turnover, great prices. Love this place.
Lanetz Living: Huge selection on more modern older patterns and an occasional antique. Low prices.
Patterns from the Past: Big selection and good prices!
Out of the Ashes: You can occasionally find antiques here
Mom's Patterns: There is a 1940's section here.
Antique Dollhouse: This one ships from Canada.
Reproduction Patterns: there are thankfully a lot of companies making vintage reproduction patterns today. Some direct copies, some adapted for modern wear. They can be more price-conscious than originals, not to mention you get some of the cream of the crop designs without paying those cream prices. Go forth and browse!
Decades of Style
Eva Dress
Vintage Pattern Lending Library
Past Patterns
Wearing History
Reconstructing History
The Big 4 also make some reproduction patterns that are readily available at Joann Fabrics. Watch for pattern sales.
Vintage Inspired Patterns: There are a lot of these indie pattern makers popping up and I couldn't be happier about it. Take a look.
Sewaholic Patterns
Deer and Doe- The Francophile in me is like 'yeaaaah!'
Colette Patterns
I may amend this list as I discover new sources.
Happy Hunting Sewers, and Good Luck!
A random pattern from my stash just because.
